Paper mache clay recipe using non-toxic, natural, and recycled materials

My paper mache recipes have changed over the years, and I usually adjust the ingredients slightly based on what I need for a particular project. In this blogpost, I’ll show you how to make a basic paper clay using non-toxic, natural, and recycled materials and ingredients that you might have in your kitchen or art studio.
So … let’s get started!

Ingredients

To make this basic clay, you will need:

• 2 brown paper pulp balls (approx. 120 grams each)
• 4 TBSP mid-grade sawdust
• 4 TBSP rice flour
• 4 TBSP cellulose paste 
• 1 TSP glycerol 
• 1 TSP vinegar 
• 1 TSP linseed oil (optional)

Let’s look at some of the ingredients and why to use them. 

Brown paper pulp 

• Structure
• Bulk and texture
• Cost effective

Brown paper is the base ingredient. I recycle paper bags or brown paper packaging material. You can make larger batches and keep them in a fridge.

Cellulose

• Adhesive
• Silky, smooth quality
• Moisture control 
• Food-safe and non-toxic

Cellulose is an excellent adhesive. The long molecules create strong bonds between paper fibres and other components. The paste adds a silky, smooth quality to the mixture that makes it easier to work with. Like glycerol, cellulose paste helps control moisture. It slows down the drying process, giving you more working time while allowing the piece to dry thoroughly. Cellulose paste is generally food-safe and non-toxic (use the powder sold for schools).

One downside is that most cellulose pastes are biodegradable, so you should use your clay batch within a day or two. 

Sawdust

• Structure
• Bulk and texture
• Moisture control
• Cost effective

The wood fibres in sawdust add reinforcement, similar to how fibreglass strengthens resin. This helps prevent cracking and makes the final piece more durable.

Sawdust also adds body and texture to the mixture, helping it hold its shape while sculpting. 

The wood also absorbs excess moisture, which can help prevent warping or uneven drying. This is particularly helpful when making larger pieces.

Make sure the sawdust is from untreated wood to avoid chemical contamination and sift the dust first to remove larger particles.

Rice flour

• Strength and durability
• Natural preservative
• Drying properties
• Adhesive 

Rice flour contains natural starches that, when mixed with water and dried, create strong bonds. The flour has finer particles compared to wheat flour, which helps create a smoother finish in the clay mixture. It has mild antimicrobial properties that help prevent mould growth.

Rice flour creates a harder surface when dried compared to wheat flour, and tends to shrink less during the drying process. It also acts as a natural adhesive, adding to the overall binding power of your paper mache clay mixture. 

Glycerol 

• Humectant Properties
• Plasticiser Effect 
• Moisture Retention

Glycerol (also called glycerin) is a clear, colourless, thick liquid derived from fats and oil, often used in cosmetics. It attracts and retains moisture from the air. In paper mache clay, it helps prevent the mixture from drying out too quickly while you’re working with it, giving you more time to shape and mould your creation.

It also acts as a plasticiser, making the paper mache clay more pliable and flexible. It improves the overall workability, and reduces the risk of cracking or breaking, even after the paper mache clay dries.

Glycerol is typically added in small amounts (I only add one teaspoon per batch).

Vinegar

• Preservative
• Natural biocide
• Bonding agent
• Cost Effective

The acetic acid in vinegar acts as a natural preservative, inhibiting mould and bacteria growth, and helping to deter insects. 

The slight acidity can also improve the bonding between ingredients and help to break down paper fibres.

And vinegar is readily available and environmentally friendly.

Linseed oil 

• Water-resistant 
• Natural plasticiser
• Strengthens
• Smoother finish

Once dried, linseed oil (also known as flaxseed oil) creates a natural water-resistant barrier, making the finished sculpture more durable in humid conditions. Like glycerol, the oil acts as a natural plasticiser, keeping the clay pliable and adding flexibility to the dried clay. Linseed oil is a “drying oil,” meaning it naturally hardens when exposed to air. It strengthens the final piece over time. It can also help to create a smoother finish. 

However, linseed oil takes time to cure, requiring longer drying times. I do not use it in the base clay, but add it for specific use cases. 

Mixing the ingredients

Start with the brown paper pulp. Tear the paper into small pieces. Soak it in warm water until the paper feels soft. Blend until the mixture becomes a smooth, consistent pulp without visible paper pieces. Work in small batches, adding enough additional water. 

Strain out excess water using a fine mesh strainer or cheesecloth. The pulp should be wet enough to hold together but not dripping.

Place your paper balls into a metal bowl. Add the other ingredients and knead the mixture with your hands until it has the right consistency.  

Keep a water basin and towel close by! 

Use the clay right away or store it in an airtight container in a cool environment. 

Thank you for reading. If you enjoyed this blogpost, you might want to check out my other tutorials.